Skincare shift : bye-bye topical and hello ingestible supplements
The global beauty industry (comprising skin care, color cosmetics, hair care, fragrances, and personal care) generates $500 billion in sales a year and accounts for millions of jobs, directly and indirectly. The industry has, however, taken a drastic downturn due to the COVID-19 crisis resulting in widespread store closures and plummeting sales. In a variety of markets, consumers report they intend to spend less on beauty products in the near future.
The crisis is forcing retailers, strategic players, and investors to adapt in order to survive the economic magnitude of the COVID-19 pandemic on the beauty industry.
Given the realities of working from home, physical distancing, and mask wearing, it has become much less important to wear makeup and fragrance with prestige brands seeing a 55% and 75% percent decline in cosmetic and fragrance purchasing, respectively, versus a year ago. When consumers do return to work, many will continue to wear masks, further slowing makeup’s recovery. However, the news isn’t all bad for the beauty market especially ingestible supplement.
McKinsey & Company state that the closure of premium beauty-product and fashion outlets because of COVID-19, has resulted in a shutdown of approximately 30% of the beauty-industry market.
A renaissance of herbs and Roots
Herbs and roots have been used for centuries in Chinese and Ayurvedic healing traditions. These adaptogens are non-toxic plants that help the body resist stressors of all kinds, whether physical, chemical or biological. On the whole, “adaptogens help your body handle stress,” says Dr. Brenda Powell, co-medical director of the Center for Integrative and Lifestyle Medicine at the Cleveland Clinic’s Wellness Institute. Plants do this by interacting with the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis and the sympathoadrenal system, both of which are involved in the body’s response to stress. Reishi and ginseng have been found in some small studies to boost immunity, something that’s sorely needed during this period.
Championing collagen
Collagen has many important functions, including providing your skin with structure and strengthening your bones. Collagen supplements are usually hydrolyzed, which means the collagen has been broken down, making it easier for the body to absorb. Several studies have shown that collagen peptides or supplements containing collagen may help slow the aging of the skin by reducing wrinkles and dryness. Women who took a supplement containing 2.5–5 grams of collagen for 8 weeks experienced less skin dryness and a significant increase in skin elasticity compared with those who did not take the supplement. Healthcare states that another study found similar results in 66 women who took 5 grams of collagen daily for 12 months. The women who took the collagen showed an increase of up to 7% in their bone mineral density (BMD), compared with women who did not consume collagen.
Preventing and treating ‘maskne’
Maskne or mask acne is a real thing. People who are already prone to breakouts may find that wearing a face covering will amplify the condition. A mask traps the breath which causes an increase in humidity and temperature in this region. As the skin temperature increases so does circulation and sweating, and this combination of friction and heat means accelerated oil and cell production. Coupled with increased sweating, this can result in clogging and congestion on the skin. The warm, moist environment is the ideal breeding ground for cutibacterium acnes (formerly propionibacterium acnes) – bacteria commonly associated with inflamed and infected breakout lesions in acne conditions. Initially the skin may feel rough, but it gradually becomes bumpy, and then starts to develop more blackheads, raised papules and painful lesions. Dr Yoram Harth, a board-certified dermatologist in the United States and chief medical officer at MDAcne suggests switching to reusable cotton face masks infused with special nanoparticles that help fight bacteria growth. These reusable masks are breathable, recyclable and, most importantly, infused with metal ions that reduce bacteria and fungi under the mask, much like athletic apparel companies that infuse silver into their clothing to prevent sweat from stinking. Copper and silver in masks nix bacteria proliferation and help reduce mask-related acne and breakouts.
The secret to clear skin
Dr Yannis Alexandrides, the founder of celebrity-favorite 111Skin says that if the gut is nourished and healthy then the skin will be able to effectively repair itself. He recommends supplements that balance the microbiome in the gut in order to facilitate a strong microbiome on the skin. Andrea Pfeffer, the founder of cult London salon Pfeffer Sal says a daily probiotic is also a fantastic supplement to incorporate as a healthy gut is integral to healthy skin. Probiotics have been shown to defend against pathogens, improve nutrient absorption and support our immune system. Zinc regulates sebum production, helping to reduce excess oil which can lead to breakouts. The bottom line is that the healthier your insides are, the better your skin will behave.
THE WAY FORWARD
Keeping a business operational in a pandemic when social distancing and no testers are permitted has been a challenge for most beauty brands globally. They will need to get creative. Although average consumers are not pressured to look their best in the pandemic, they do have more time on their hands and very limited access to professional services that were so readily available pre-pandemic. Connecting with consumers to build and maintain brand loyalty is more pertinent than ever, and there’s no better place to start than on social media.Facebook’s own official survey shows that 80% of consumers look to Instagram’s user reviews and individual brand content to help decide whether to buy a product or not. So, we’re bound to see more brands experimenting with both influencer marketing and user-generated content.
The best way forward is a focus on consumer-centric strategies and digital innovations that aim to connect with consumers in an honest way.
